In the fashion studio at university , after the work shop with Sato Shingo I wanted to push myself with learning a new advanced technical pattern from my TR pattern magic 2 book to independently construct a three-dimensional fashion design idea for my pre-collection and final major project with using my own designed style lines instead of using darts to fit the body . I wanted my designed style lines to be inspired by shells shapes from my research in my sketchbook -looking at unique ,organic shapes from marine life . My garment design includes using a loose ,lightweight fabric from silk Bureau with my transferred digital print designs for the main part of the bodice and with the style lines I want to use a structured sliver bubble transfer leather .
GH Leathers is a contact I made in my first year of University that products raw by-product materials of leather and fur -which from growing up in the country side on a farm I totally agree with using by-products from animals and natural materials as long as the animal has been killed humanely for its meat and not just for its fur ,if it has been killed for its meat then I believe out of respect its only fair to use the whole animal , as a meat eater and growing up on a farm I know that there is no stopping the process of the meat industy but I am passionate about animals and I feel that if we are going to kill animals for their meat we should respect the traditions of our ancestors where we should be using the whole animal and following the natural order of the food chain rather than causing destruction with un-natural pollution , unfair treatment and fur farms -with animal abuse and global warming which is where the human race is currently standing right now in history. I feel its important to use by-products In my collection even through I have set my brief on raising awareness to environmental issues -but environmental issues are not natural where the food chain and predator vs prey is natural and I want to show this even though I am fighting against the un-natural environmental issues of pollution and global warming to the oceans , I still believe in how the natural world works and in how we should be treating animals in the right way.
I was also inspired to order the sliver bubble transfer leather after researching Billie Jacibina a graduate who won the fashion week residency award for S/S17 collection that was inspired with a under the water theme -creating a story with her collection . I was also inspired by Alexander McQueen’s Plato Atlanis S/S10 collection with the amazing bubble like scale armour as well as mostly being inspired by Oscar Carvallo S/S13 couture collection which was also inspired by the ocean with beautiful garments of leather transfers and sheer tulle. There was one garment that captured me with a dropped waist design-dress with a pink silk tulle skirt appearing out the bottom of a structured bodice.
I experimented making a toile design out of calico and black sheer to represent a contrast in the bodice and the style lines. For my toile i first drew out a draft pattern from tracing around a dress block, drawing only down to the hip line making it into a dropped waist inspired by Oscar Carbalo ,then i applied a 1cm seam allowance all the way round the pattern apart from the arms as i wasn’t adding sleeves , i marked in the centre front and back and marking in the bust , waist line with darts.
Next i cut and pinned the paper draft to my light weight calico and cut out the dropped waist bodice in fabric , then on the sewing machines i closed my darts to make the bodice follow the curves of the body . Once finished sewing in my darts i finished the bodice by sewing the front and back right sides together at the shoulders and side seams – i only constructed half a bodice to get an idea of how to construct the pattern for my final design.
when i was finished sewing the half bodice ,i then pinned to a mannequin where i applied my pencil drawn style lines inspired by the organic shell shapes from my sketchbook ,while it was on a human figure which i preferred rather than drawing a flat pattern where you have to imagine how its going to look on a figure . I feel with this technique you can get a real idea of how the garment will look once constructed on a person which i loved !
i drew in my unique style lines regardless to the positioning of the darts and i made sure i added notches front and back of new drawn style line. Once happy i then cut out my style lines ,cutting out each new pattern piece. I found that once cut out they didn’t lie uniformly flat in the fabric like they would if in paper but i loved having the courage and control to cut straight into my fabric just like Alexander McQueen did for his Plato Atlantic collection where he was interested in the concept of hybrid ,where he wanted to juxtaposition fabrics together to see how they would react to one another which is what inspired my design ideas for my collection where i can juxtaposition light weight fabrics with heavy , structured fabrics . Alexander McQueen with his dresses in Plato Atlantic modelled his jersey shift dresses to a mannequin and then started cutting up his tailored pieces and morphed the two together which was very brave and confident , he seemed like he was never afraid of doing anything in fashion which is so inspiring.
To make the fabric styled lines -pattern lay flat for my toile i had a few options -one where i could makes folds in the pattern -pinned with little slits on either side or little darts or when sewing i could make little pleats /ruching which would look quite pretty on the bust . I followed the technique of folding and making little slits in most of them apart from on the bust where i wanted to experiment with making ruching when sewing that would work in the black sheer but not in leather.
Then i pinned the fabric pattern -style lines in calico to my black sheer fabric ,added a 1cm seam allowance and cut out each pattern while remembering to snip into the notches.
The hard part of this pattern was now laying the main bodice flat and pinning to more calico fabric when the style lines where cut out, but once layered and pinned i could cut out a new bodice with a 1cm seam allowance all over and then i could start pinning and stitching the black style lines back into the main calico bodice using the mountain and valley sewing technique . I feel very proud and happy with the outcome and want to definitely use the pattern again in my Final Major Project.
Photos to come 🙂